Labour Day Weekend in Vancouver and Whistler

For Labor Day (or Labour Day, as it is called in Canada), we took a second annual trip north to Vancouver, British Columbia to check out the famous ski area, Whistler, and the alpine summer hiking that can be accessed from the resort chair lifts. Taking the gondola from the base ski area, it saved our legs the ~4000 feet ascent, putting us at treeline for the start of the hike. We thought it would be a flat-lined and easy hike from here, but we were in for a humbling surprise. The remaining 16 miles were a near constant roller coaster of elevation and emotions as we trudged up and over mountain flanks to see a tiny scribble of the trail proceeding up and over the next distant peak. Each time, I thought to myself that the connecting trail we could see must be a mountaineering path that splintered off to reach the mountain summit. I was sadly mistaken as an hour later I found myself looking back to the former location from the once distance neighboring mountain flank.

The trails, dubbed maliciously as a combination of "The Musical Bumps" and "High Note," were rated as some of the most scenic in the Western British Columbia region. However, 2016 was the year summer forgot the Pacific Northwest, leaving us shrouded in a low cloud layer and inconsistent mizzle and mist. Fortunately, a fast-moving, low-lying cloud layer is a photographer's delight as they somehow manage to give mountains an even mightier pose and enhanced mysteriousness.

Ride up in the Whistler Express gondola

Craig trudging up Pika's Traverse trail at the start of the trip

Blanketed in a cloud

Although we couldn't see the eye-popping peaks around us, the clouds made for pretty dramatic photos

Mini rock man on the trail.

More clouds as we make our way down the first of 3 Musical "Bumps" (Piccolo, Flute, and Oboe).

Loving life at treeline

Marching our way of peak 3 of the "bumps." I believe this was Oboe. 

We've finally almost arrived at our camp site for the night at the base of Mt. Fissle.

When we planned the trip, we had a dream of staying in an established wood hut that holds up to 12 campers. I imagined with the bad weather might have to share the space with, at most, 3 people. Again, the story I told myself and the reality of the trip diverged when we rounded the last corner to see a slew of humans buzzing around the hut like a beehive and about 10 other tents already established in prime spots nearby. I'm very thankful that we brought our tent as a backup plan. 

The evening got cold FAST and after setting up the tent, we spent nearly the entire night inside drinking whiskey and reading National Geographic.

Looking out of the tent at the adorable mountain hut. 

Due to the cold, we spent the evening in the tent until the setting sun and low clouds put on an irresistible show.

Sunset on the camps.

 Sunset on Mt. Fissle with out tent in the front left.

Did I mention it was cold? I went into full caterpillar mode.

The following morning, the clouds parted for several minutes to reveal the peaks around us. The brief vista was quickly obscured as we watched the next round of thick, low layers gracefully spill over the ridge face.

 How cute is this hut?! It belongs in the Swiss Alps!

We were also briefly treated to a glimpse of this MASSIVE GLACIER! This is Cheakamus Glacier and she's a beaut!

Photos don't do Cheakamus Glacier any justice in telling the story of just how wide it is!

So many beautiful shades of green and blue.

On the home stretch to return to the gondola for a relaxing sub-alpine ride down the mountain. I love the contrast between the red and gray of the peak in the background. 

 

The second to last climb before the gondola is the wall in front of us.  

While I felt the description and other reviews of the trail were misleading regarding just how continuously steep this trail is and I was bummed that we didn't get the full effect of wowing peaks (seriously guys, Google the magnificent views this place boasts when it's cloud-free), I really enjoyed the experience we had. The low, swirling clouds, although effective in reducing our visibility to 50 feet in some instances, also gave us the equally beautiful nebulous and mystical perspective and reminded me that it's the dynamic aspect of mountain environments that draws me to these places. 

We made it! On the gondola and back on to Vancouver.

The remainder of the weekend was filled with city relaxing in our fancy-pants hotel (which is especially appreciated after a few days in the mountains), ramen, and the musical 'The Book of Mormon.' Labour Day success!

Outside of Japan, Vancouver is the place to be for ramen! 

So good!

The Book of Mormon

View from our hotel room

Weekend in Victoria, BC

Ah, Victoria...the capital city of British Columbia, a culture filled with a bright mix of eccentric, friendly people, a foodie's dreams, and a city that quickly escalated to one of my favorite places to visit. Craig and I took the Victoria Clipper from Seattle to Victoria on the long Memorial Day weekend. Taking only our bikes and what would fit in our panniers, we planned for a relaxing three days of checking out the capital and the surrounding area on our faithful, two-wheeled steeds.

The Clipper, although a little pricey at ~$150 round trip each, was a very easy way to get to Vancouver Island. Not only did we not have to drive the +4.5 hours, but we also would have to deal with border patrol and parking. Although we were in the last group to board, we got seats in the second row from the front with a great view out the bow windows. The seats were roomy and comfortable and we were able to walk around the ship at our leisure. It was also large enough that we didn't feel much motion from the water so I didn't get my usual sea sickness!

looking out, heading north

The view on the ferry.

I tried waking Craig to tell him we were crossing the Straight of Juan de Fuca, but he didn't much care. haha

As we arrived in Victoria Harbor, I think I used the word 'adorable' to describe the scene about 10 times before we disembarked the ship. The harbor was surrounded by Victorian buildings and waterfront businesses with lots of vegetation built into the urban landscape. Small sail boats and tour vessels zipped around the bay. You could tell it was a city, but it had a very small, British feel to it. Have I mentioned how adorable it was?   

Once off the boat, we spent the day pretty much eating our way through the delicious city and checking out the amiable downtown atmosphere.

View of downtown from Victoria Harbor

View of downtown Victoria with an artisan market

Having tea at one of our favorite places to eat, Rebar.

Biking through downtown Victoria

Lounging outside the British Columbia Parliament Buildings

Dichotomy of cultures in the PNW

A one bunny-marimba-band playing cover songs. He goes by Thump 'R Bunny! Street performers are the greatest!

Craig gets a Manhattan in a Mason jar....with a lime.

We stayed in a room we found on AirBnB. It was a great find and the homeowners whipped us up a delicious breakfast each morning with eggs from their backyard chickens. They also provided homemade soaps and kombucha! 

Creative landscaping

The next morning, we rode our bikes ~60 miles north of Victoria to the town of Sidney along the Lochside trail and looped back along the west side of the peninsula. It was a mostly flat, but peaceful ride transitioning from urban to forested wetlands, to agricultural farmlands, and finally to seaside towns. The drivers in the area seemed very accepting of bicyclists and I found it to be one of the easiest, stress-free places to get around via bike.

Enjoying breakfast from the girls (peeking out in the background) before our bikeride

A wetland along the bike trail.

Tunnel!

Craig walking along the water during a break in our bike ride.

We saw lots of totem poles around Victoria.

A pet sheep a the road side farm house where we had lunch.

Looking out at one of the many bays we passed. We got a few rain drops after this photo was taken.

Biking in Sidney, BC.

Sea planes were a common site. This one just came in for a landing.

Biking through a painted tunnel. I love it when communities add a local flair to an otherwise boring, concrete tunnel.

Making our way back to Victora.

More tunnel paintings.

Good words to live by.

Our last day was brief, but spent mostly in the tiny Chinatown area of Victoria sampling teas and eating. We didn't have time for much else as we had to board the boat after lunch to return to Seattle.

A tiny China town where we had lunch before leaving for the U.S.

Boarding the Clipper to head back to Washington

On the deck of the Clipper with Canada behind us.

Our time in Victoria, though brief, was very relaxing. I'm not usually much of a city explorer when I go on trips, but this friendly, low-key, tea-loving, free-spirited place was an exception. I found an immediate and subconscious sense of happiness here and think it is definitely a place I could see myself living someday. I can't wait to return to the area and explore some of the other gorgeous places on Vancouver Island and throughout British Columbia.